I didn't just fall in love with Lisbon, I left convinced I'd lived there in a previous life.
My companion: One of my oldest University friends on the occasion of her birthday. She's like a gentle sunny breeze, she can tell a tale, has a wicked sense of humour, can put anyone at ease, and has an incredible nose for truly special places to dine.
As you look down from the hill top castle, Lisbon positively glows. The sand, terracotta and blush hues perfectly capture the rays, and it is sunny here, for an average of 300 days a year. The feeling of stepping out, in shades and coatless, in February, without bracing against the cold is blissful.
On a practical level Lisbon is very walkable, amazing for foodies, including, to my delight, plant eaters, and is the most stunning jumble of magical side streets, street art, architecture dripping in ceramic tiles and so many beautiful places to stop.
Lisbon is situated at the mouth of the Tagus river which flows out to the Adriatic. I don't know about you, but I find cities by the sea have a special quality. Maybe it’s the waves that soothe the soul, but I can’t help suspect it’s the openness to new adventure too…the result of people over hundreds of years coming and going by ship.
Maybe also, it was the birthday morning cacao ceremony I created for my friend before we left our Airbnb, which left our hearts truly open to float round the city and see where it carried us.
Lisbon is my favourite kind of city, the ones you can just explore by foot and with little planning. We walked from our Airbnb for brunch, then a short walk to the river mouth via the public plaza, Praça do Comércio.
My spine tingling deja vu happened as our curiosity called us to walk through Terrio de Praço ferry terminal. It’s a beautifully tiled space with huge clocks which leads out to the river and then the sea. I was suddenly mesmerised.
I stood a while rooted, looking at the old clock and letting the feeling of deja vu move through me.
Maybe it’s just an atmospheric spot. Maybe it was just the gentle clanking of the gangways on the other side which after a while, had such a deep eerie sound we both felt we had to leave. I felt like I had definitely been there before.
Afterwards, a meander up to the castle to shake off the deja vu. We soaked up the views and laughed at the crazy number of peacocks perched in the trees before whiling a few hours in Ludos cafe, eating and drinking beer and smiling so much at the music that the owner wrote down some recommendations for us.
That evening we met some old friends of mine, who were also in Lisbon, in the Bairro Alto, known for quirky bars, traditional restaurants and the longing inducing sound of Fado music, a window into the soul of Portugal and a feature on the UNESCO 'intangible' heritage list.
Then on to the most incredible meal I have ever eaten, at BouBou's. To celebrate my companion's birthday, we had the Terra vegetarian tasting menu and the wine flight. A work of art and alchemy by its chef, Louise Bourrat, who won the French Top Chef 2022.
I have left it far too long to type this up to do it full foodie justice, but let me just say, this vegetarian's heart was unexpectedly stolen by a bloodied heart. It was made, I believe, of mushroom, and oozed with a bloody sauce and had the thickest juiciest umami flavours. I had never ever wanted 'meatiness' in a meal, until I tasted this. Incredible, just like all the courses. And there is a menu for omnivores too. My friend declared the chefs had been making love to her mouth. Not a bad way to spend your birthday.
A family run restaurant, we loved the decor's humour and greenery. There is a casual vibe, we chatted lots to guests on other tables, and we found the service truly warm and beautifully attentive. Even when our wine flight sent us a bit giddy and we couldn’t stop telling everyone how amazing they were, and rolled out at 1am adamant we’d been sailors together in a past Lisbon life….
The next day we pottered to LAX factory, an old textile factory turned into quirky food, gift and craft shops. We ate more great food, I bought cool socks and bracelets for my kids and a beautiful orange and gold scarf just for me.
Lisbon we love you.. all over again ;)