The Lighthouse Restaurant Tasting Menu, Derbyshire.

Nb. I wrote this some time ago, but after my companion turned out to have more red flags than a matador, I didn't post it. But a good friend suggested I reclaim the experience, the joy of writing and experiencing incredible food...

The Autumn tasting menu at the Lighthouse was a nostalgic, playful, uplifting, surprising and pretty damn sexy journey through food.

I pondered why The Lighthouse is so named, being landlocked as it is, in deepest, darkest Derbyshire. It works though, it was the name that first caught my interest. On arrival I was drawn like a moth to the warm light emitting from this remote and cosy former pub. And once inside, the lighting kept giving too.

I love living in the Peak District, but I really miss the eating opportunities of the cities I have called home. The Lighthouse is a beacon of foodie heaven. I'd been deep in editing my novel, also set in a remote Peak District pub, so this was a much appreciated breather.

Tom Yum Broth exploded like bonfire night, a warming welcome, a chance to ground but also gasp at all the flavour hits. Next followed three snacks, all insanely flavoured and textured, but the mini crumpets stole my heart, with Lincolnshire Poacher, an old favourite of my Dad's. Washed down with Champagne. Hello.

The joy of bread being a whole course - I loved it. Huge slabs of warm sourdough with toasted seeds. Wooden butter knives that filled me with nostalgia for Scandinavian family holidays as a child. Fluffy clouds of butter with spring onion and tarragon. After turning around to the open kitchen to share my joy, half a loaf to take home for breakfast, a kind gesture on the part of Jon Hordy, owner and chef.

I had the Vegetarian menu and it was bold, beautiful but also a perfect mirror to the main menu. The BBQ King Oyster Mushroom paired beautifully with Chablis and Roasted Cauliflower with Chateauneuf Du Pape.

I loved the playfulness of introducing a cocktail to the wine flight for the Thai Green Bok Choy, which helped transport me back to my trip to Kho Lak. The Thai food flavours were bang on.

Peanut, Miso and Banana is a combination so damn good I had to keep reminding myself not to articulate its yumminess for the whole restaurant to hear. The Bramley Apple Millefeuille was the most insanely beautiful dish in form and content.

The Baron Bigod was optional and my god I am so glad I did opt, this Brie style cheese was sublime served on Spiced Ginger Cake with Derbyshire Honey and Sussex Autumn Truffle. Basically sex on a plate.

I was gutted to accidentally leave the petit fours in the taxi - my wine flight had definitely flown by this point - but fortunately not the sourdough which made for excellent breakfast in bed with the dog.

Penny Brereton

Penny Brereton